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GLACIER TECHNIC [knots]
Introduction

Your safety depends on your knots. The knot must not change when it's loaded in various directions. The knot shall also be easy to tie up and to loose and not damage the rope.

You tie the knot so it looks so nice as possible, then it will hold well. You leave about 4 cm in both ends.

Below you see some useful knots when hiking on glaciers.


Rope eight

Probably the most common knot.

  • Used to tie the harness together.

  • When you tie two ropes together.

  • Used for loops on the rope.


Fishing knot (double)

A simple knot but still useful.

  • When you tie two ropes together.

  • Perfect on slings.

  • Optimized for stiffer ropes.


Prusik

A force knot which locks under load. Easily moved with no load. Normally the rope is 6-mm or 7-mm.

  • Used when you are down in the crack and when you are able to climb up yourself.

  • To shorten the rope you use this knot.

  • When rescuing your partner you use it on safety slings.

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